Some time ago, Mr. MacGyver and I watched a documentary about the city of Edinburgh. In it they talked about how there are layers of city streets below the modern street level. You can read a little bit about it here. In the past, instead of the city sprawling out like the city of Los Angeles, the city spread up. Buildings got taller and eventually the streets at the bottom were covered to make a new street level. However, closed in though the original streets and accommodations were, people still lived in them.
Oh there are lovely, macabre stories about the things that went on in the closes, some true, some not so true. Stories of body snatchings, hauntings and people getting sealed inside.
Of course this made the closes a must-see stop on our trip. The thing is, there are closes all up and down the royal mile at street level which give you an idea what the original closes might have been like. You can look at them and imagine them getting covered over completely. But there are also tours you can take, leading you down into the bowels of the closes.
All of my photos are of the closes topside. Though we went on a tour of Mary King's Close, we were not allowed to take photos while down in the close...it was also very, very dark, not at all conducive to no flash photography.
Most of the closes at street level look like this, or contain steep stairwells that lead to another part of Old Town.
Others look like this, leading out into a courtyard in which you might find restaurants, living spaces or businesses.
Here is one of the steep stairwell variety.
Needless to say, the closes captured my imagination, little dark hallways with the promise of light at the end. Each one of them seemed to hold a secret that was waiting to be discovered. I wanted to dip into each and every one of them, and people do. They use them to navigate the city on foot.
Here we are, about to descend into Mary King's Close for a tour.
Her close is famous because, at one time it was said to be haunted. It didn't feel particularly haunted to me...it felt pretty touristy. On the other hand, it was a nice example of the conditions in which people lived and worked as late as the 19th century.
To describe it...people lived in mere vaulted caves, no air, no natural light, no windows, and they lived there with their animals, often five or more people and animals per vault. Because there was no plumbing and the closes were built on a hill leading down to the river, they would throw their waste out into the street, yelling "Gardy-loo" as they threw it, and it would wash down into the river. Imagine the smell. Yuck. Imagine the disease. Want to go swimming?
If you go to Edinburgh, you too could take the Mary King's Close Tour (it no longer smells of excrement), but if you are looking for something more spooky, there are other tours available...those are the ones I am going for next time I visit.
Next Up: Greyfriars Churchyard and Cemetery.
If you'd like to find out what is happening in the dollhouse, please visit Adventures at Weathertop.